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Since the labels inception in 2003 Lonely Hearts has built a reputation of creating a look that is imaginative, chic, distinct, and above all else wearable.
The fact that Helene Morris & Aimee Macfarlane’s exposure to popular culture was while being raised in the eighties in ‘small town New Zealand’, or perhaps teenage pre-occupation with fashion that made them seem like rebellious outsiders to their peers are reasons for each collection being a somewhat eclectic mix of ideas and concepts.
Now with the Auckland as their adopted home, Helene & Aimee continue to challenge traditional ideas and concepts in fashion through their collections, turning out designs that are soft and feminine one day, brooding and dark the next.
Design Statement
Clever, subversive and fun, Lonely Hearts has created an image that is distinct, feminine and wearable. The designs, which reference music, sport and icons of pop culture, reflects the dark, intellectual ‘New Zealand look’ but with a lighthearted approach. Fabrics in Hard vs Soft, heavy vs light and textural contrasts, worn together in unison or paired in disparity are key in every collection.
Freestyle Moto X and protective outerwear spawned the AW09 collection Electric Doom, which took the usual play on sport elements, added ethereal layers of muddy floral silk, lace and chiffon, anchored by leather, wool and grunge checks to create a look described as modern grunge revival. An oversize Heavy knit Mohair Coat thrown over a calf length overdyed chiffon dress worn with Skinny leather jeans epitomizes the layered ‘haute street’ look that Lonely Hearts is known for.
Vintage corsetry and underwear another source of constant inspiration, were re-worked Into lace dresses, bustiers & undergarments for SS08 Add It Up. The collection, which took notes from pop icons, like collections before, owes a creative debt to the music scene of the 80’s & 90’s. Full, soft shapes of lace & viscose are constrained with corsets and leather strapping and chain & skull details to create a moody beauty that is personified throughout each Lonely Hearts collection.
The trappings of the 1990’s were ever present in AW08 Add It Up, where; taking musical cues from Public Image & Bros, imagery in the form of large scale Warhol-esque Madonna print graphics; combined tartan plaid dresses, customised leather jackets, tartan drop crotch pants and denim brassieres with brothel creepers to create a modern rethink fusion of Pop/punk.
Pop culture and the apocalypse, when combined with the literary writings of Seuss and viewed through the eyes of Lonely Hearts, translates into a poppy easy wearing and carefree collection with a dark edge as seen in SS07 The End.
Science Fiction movies also play their part in influencing themes, Flash Gordon for example prompted AW07 Moonbase which saw a collaboration with an interior lighting design firm that lead to creation of an installation centered around giant moonhoppers. This installation during New Zealand Fashion week gained notoriety in several acclaimed publications including Japanese Vogue, U.S Nylon and Sportswear international and helped put Lonely Hearts on the fashion map after cult stores i Heart NYC and White Trash Charms L.A picked up the collection.
In every collection Lonely Hearts maintains it’s credibility and indifference to popular expectations of fashion, often adopting an outsiders view of trends themes and ideas, presenting collections that are distinct, considered, and fun.
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